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DESCRIPTIVE READING 



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BELGIUM 



ILLUSTRATED BY TWELVE LANTERN 
SLIDES 



. JAN 21.^._. , . '' 

Y "7^ - 

WILLIAM H. RAU 

PHILADELPHIA 
1891 



Copyright^ 189 1, by William H. Rau, 



ILLUSTRATIONS. 



1 Cathedral at Antwerp. 

2 Hotel de Ville. 

3 Shipping — The Great Docks. 

4 King's Palace, Brussels. 

5 Grand Place, Brussels. 

6 The Bourse. 

7 Dog Team. 

8 Lion Mount — Field of Waterloo. 

9 Rocher Bayard Dinant, Sur Meuse. 

10 Hotel de Ville Oudenarde. 

11 Mechlin Cathedral. 

12 Hotel de Ville, Ypres. - 



BELGIUM. 



Interwoven and garlanded about the head of this 
attractive country of Belgium is a chain of historic 
and artistic events, which give it a prominent and 
interesting position in the Congress of Nations, and 
makes a review of its cities as profitable and enter- 
taining a subject as one could care to take up, par- 
ticularly through the medium of views which speak 
so eloquently for themselves of the struggles and 
progressive development of this bit of wedge land 
bounded by Holland and the North Sea, France and 
Germany. It is asserted that before the completion 
of an art course, or an artist's graduation in his stud- 
ies can be claimed, Belgium and Holland must be 
visited, for 'tis there atmospheric effects are seen m 
their singularly true values, and the picturesque cos- 
tumes and marked habits of their people, open a field 
stored with funds of study and color. To the land of 
Rubens, Rembrandt, Van Dyke and clustering jewels 
of feebler sparkle, let us then turn our faces. Bel- 
gium was primitively settled by Celtic tribes, who 
finally submitted to Julius Caesar from thence on to 
undergo varied fortunes — owing principally to its 
peculiar location, it was ruled now by one people, 
then passing into the power of another, and so down 
to our own time in 1831, when the French Army 
penetrated Belgium, to enforce the Great Powers 

(5) 



6 BELGIUM. 

Treaty of London, and after a long and difficult siege, 
took Antwerp. Its closely allied relations to France, 
though now a royalty again, accounts for the polish 
of its people, for the official language of the country 
is French, and almost all its literature is compiled 
in that tongue. Flemish is spoken however, and has 
had, and has in our day many noted writers. It was 
in 1883 that an order was issued to all the schools in 
the provinces, authorizing the teaching of the Flem- 
ish language. As Archbishop Trench, in his masterly 
work, ''The Study of Words," claims that the pro- 
gression of a nation is surely marked and discerned 
by the refinement of their conversations and Avritings; 
so is it of true art, which is the right arm of refine- 
ment and culture. Therefore, logically followed out 
on this premise, Belgium asserts herself as the seat of 
culture, for art has been her stronghold for many 
centuries. 

1. Cathedral at Antwerp. — This commanding 
Gothic edifice of the Notre Dame is by far the most 
beautiful and imposing structure in Belgium. Its con- 
struction was started away back in 1352, and was in 
1566 and in 1794 almost hopelessly destroyed. It was 
Napoleon who compared the tower of this cathedral 
to a *'net work of lace," and another notable charac- 
ter said it warranted a place in a jewel box. With 
all its imposing exterior their reigns within it such 
splendor and solemn grandeur as to be almost depress- 
ing. Here may be seen that masterpiece of Rubens, 
*'The Descent from the Cross," as well as the "Eleva- 
tion to the Cross." To reach the tower one would 
have to climb about 403 feet, and at the top is a chime 



BELGIUM. 7 

of 99 bells. In the center of the square may be seen the 
musician's pavilion, for like the old Greek Lycurgas, 
the Flemish believe that Music and Art are the greatest 
educators. In this beautiful city of Antwerp, which 
to-day is the Mecca for many a tourist, one is struck 
by seeing in niches at almost every corner of the 
street, carved statues of the Virgin and Child. The city 
has a population of 204,500 inhabitants, and was in the 
time of Charles V, the most animated and successful 
city of the Christian world. As a shipping port it has 
few rivals. Steamers and sailing craft of all nations, 
are ruffling the bosom of the Schelt ever. Its history as 
a city is as varied as interesting. The old basin of the 
port was reconstructed by Napoleon, being considered 
at that time of strategic importance. Its fortifications 
now are regarded, from an engineering standpoint, 
as perfect ; and in case of dire emergency the sur- 
rounding country may be inundated. 

2. Hotel cle Ville. — One wonders in wandering 
through Belgium and noting the amicable disposition 
of her people, why the necessity of the numerous 
Hotel deVilles or City Halls; for certainly the inhab- 
itants are not an unruly lot and would scarcely war- 
rant more than one seat of Justice in the entire coun- 
try. This one at Antwerp is of the Doric and Ionic 
architecture, built in the i6th century, and it is 
directly in the rear of the famous Cathedral. In a niche 
at the top, as may be plainly seen, is a statue of the 
Virgin, the patron saint of the city, and below are the 
allegorical figures of ''Wisdom" and ''Justice." In- 
side the staircase is a sight worth seeing, as it is most 
beautifully carved, and the ceilings are richly decor- 



8 BELGIUM. 

ated. In one of the main rooms is a series of views 
illustrating the city, and a handsome relief of the 
city's arms. This entire interior was restored as late 
as 1882. Leaving the solitary figure to wander on in 
meditation to the entrance or trace his steps through 
the picturesque side streets, we will turn to , 

3. Sliipping"— The Great Oocks. — Unlike Liver- 
pool entrance, where one is greeted by cold, bold 
granite, though magnificent docks, at Antwerp one is 
greeted with a pleasing prospect, for bordering the 
river, are the irregular and picturesque fronts of 
ancient houses. The rise and fall of the tides vary 
from 13 to 20 feet, and necessarily the quays are of 
the most substantial structure, not only on this 
account, but owing to the immense amount of ship- 
ping transacted from and to every known port in the 
world. The river is spanned by movable bridges, 
and hydraulic power is used to great extent in load- 
ing and unloading cargoes. Antwerp is the docking 
port for the Red Star Line, as well as for a regular 
service to Sidney, Australia and Shanghai, China. 

4. King's Palace, Brussels. — The King's Palace 
or as it is better known, the Palais Royal, is located 
at the capital city of Brussels. Its situation is in that 
section of the city known as the elevated quarter, or 
the section represented by the nobility, while the 
commercial people settled in what is called the lower 
quarter. This peculiarity of divisions in cities is not 
alone confined to Brussels, however. In the edifice 
itself there is little that suggests the popular idea of 
a King's palace, its exterior suggesting more the 



BELGIUM. 9 

appearance ofa well-regulated hotel. Prior to 1827 the 
Royal household occupied two buildings which were 
connected after that time by the erection of a central 
connecting structure which addition may be seen in 
this view — that part with the six Corinthian columns. 
In the interior the decorations and furnishings are very 
elaborate and one of the finest small collections of old 
masters in Europe may be seen here. The fact of the 
nobility remaining the greater portion of the year in 
the city, and the attending life such residence brings, 
may account in part for Brussels' well-known name of 
" Little Paris." Evidently when this view was cap- 
tured the King was away, for when he is present in 
the palace, the flying of the National flag at the staff 
always indicates the fact. 

5. Grand Place, Brussels. — The Grand Place, 
or that park surrounding the Hotel de Ville, is very 
attractive. The hotel was built in the 15th century. 
Its architecture is Gothic, andhas been the study and 
model of architects for years. Its spire, but a portion 
of which is shown here, is not so high nor as rich in 
finish as that of Antwerp. The two wings of the 
building are uneven, being of different epochs and 
vary decidedly in the decoration of style. The lion's 
staircase, which may be seen to the left, leads to the 
entrance of the grand reception room with its elabor- 
ately carved oak, painted ceilings and old tapestries. 
All the niches hold statuettes, crowded together so 
closely as to spoil any decorative effect, and really 
appear ludicrous. At the very crown of the tower, 
could it be seen, is a large statue of St. Michael, put 
to the practical purpose of a weather-cock. 



lO BELGIUM. 

6. The Bourse. — This modern building in the 
style of the Rennaissance, comes into view like a re- 
freshing bit of tree green after a day's prairie journey. 
There is something massive and imposing about its 
plans, and of such good composition as a whole that 
one cannot quickly tire of it. One unfortunate fact 
in its erection, was the use of a soft stone, which has 

'been covered with oil paint to add to its durability. 
On the four corners are allegorical groups. Surround- 
ing the top is a statue of Belgium, with Industry re- 
presented on the right and Navigation to the left. The 
interior room or floor of the Exchange, where the 
principal daily meetings are held, is in the shape of a 
cross. The marble staircase alone is estimated at 
costing some ;^2oo,ooo ; so that some adequate idea 
may be formed of the appearance and expenditure on 
the rest of the building. 

7. Dog- Team.— No tourist considers himself 
equipped with foreign souvenirs without a view of the 
Belgium dog team and the rosy-cheeked picturesque 
maiden. The dogs are of a peculiar breed, remark- 
ably hardy and strong, and do not seem to mind in 
the least the practical use they are enlisted in. For- 
tunately the general treatment they receive is kind, 
and such a view as this may be seen any market 
morning in the cities or along the surburban roads. 
It would seem that the miniature team had more than 
their share to draw, yet they manage to cover ground 
at a fair rate of speed. In the cart are the curiously 
shaped baskets and cans. These cans are kept 
scrupulously clean ; in our day they bid fair, how- 
ever, to become extinct, as artists have made such 



BELGIUM. 11 

inroads on the supply for studio decorations. The 
women are always neat and tidy, and one appreciates 
the correct values of Dutch painters, who have per- 
petuated their waxy complexions. The gentleman 
in the view seems a trifle demonstrative, so 'twould 
be better, perhaps, to leave him to the pleasure of an 
uninterrupted embrace and turn to 

8. Lion Mount. Field of Waterloo.— This Mount 
covers the site where some of the hardest fighting 
occurred in the great struggle of Waterloo. Over the 
ground was contested a battle which decided the fu- 
ture fate of one of the world's greatest heroes and a 
nation. Near by from the 17th to the 19th of June, 
1 81 5, were the headquarters of the Duke of Welling- 
ton, Commander-in-Chief of the allied armies of 
England, Germany and Holland. 235 steps now lead 
to the top, which is crowned by an immense bronze 
lion cast from the French cannon. The tail of this 
huge beast was broken in 1832 by the French, who 
were then en route to the siege of Antwerp. From the 
elevation one of the best views of the battle field may 
be obtained, and directly below is the spot where the 
Duke of Orange was wounded. 

9. Rocher Bayard I>inant, Sur Meuse. — During 
the time of Charlemagne and the Crusades, there 
figured four brothers named Aymon, noted for 
their bravery and daring, but most highly respected 
by all. Whether their loved horse Bayard made a fatal 
leap near the great rock, or whether he is buried close 
by it, is a point for conjecture; known it is however, 
they named the rock Bayard, and af^er their trusty 



12 BELGIUM. 

steed. Few views present the picturesque value of this, 
which might well bring its medal reward for composi- 
tion if handled by a masterly hand with the brush. 
It was this colony, protected by natural fortifications, 
on the right bank of the Meuse, that created a name 
for itself in ancient times as a great stronghold. 
One pathetic bit of its history dates far back to 1467 
when the inhabitants who had taken sides with the 
Duke of Bourgoyne met with reverses, and 800 of 
them were thrown into the river and drowned by the 
misnamed Philippe the Good. 

10. Hotel de Ville, Oudenarde. — This beautiful 
structure was started in 1525 and finished after ten 
years. Though possibly not so large as many of the 
public edifices throughout Belgium, it certainly stands 
with the first in point of exterior beauty. The tower 
is five stories high, and surmounted by a crown, which 
is rich beyond description and upon this, a seeming 
brilliant jewel, is a large bronze statue. Like all the 
Hotel de Villes and Cathedrals the one at Oudenarde 
passed through the stage of statue decoration, but they 
have now disappeared. The handsome Gothic fireplace 
may be imagined in the interior and the Council 
Chamber with the historic door of fabulous propor- 
tions, is also within. However, an exterior review gives 
far more profit than a visit inside. Underneath the 
portico several huge posters may be seen and almost 
read. One word in regard to this city, which perhaps 
is a fact too well known to repeat: it is the most noted 
manufacturing point for linen and cotton goods in 
Europe. 



BELGIUM. 13 

11. Meclilin Cathedral.— Not only is Mechlin 
the religious metropolis of Belgium, but it is also the 
great railway center, and perhaps as pretentious a 
city for ornamentation in the way of beautiful squares 
and gardens, as is to be seen in the country, This 
view hardly warrants that assertion, but like all pro- 
gressive points, improvements are evidently going on, 
so that unfavorable comment should be omitted. The 
Cathedral, whose great towering body looms up 
against the sky like a wierd guard, was commenced 
at the end of the 12th century and finished in 1312. 
Alter so much time and labor it was partly destroyed 
in the 14th century, and in being reconstructed was 
somewhat modified. It is in the form of a cross. Its 
clock face is said to be the largest in the world, and 
its chime of forty-five bells is considered remarkably 
sweet. The expense of erecting this huge edifice was 
defrayed by pilgrims of the 14th and 15th centuries. 
As may be seen by the scaffolding, it is now under- 
going repairs. One of the finest paintings from Van 
Dyke's brush is hanging inside its walls. 

12. Hotel de Ville, Ypres. — Almost starting with 
a Hotel de Ville, and describing a few in this short 
run through Belgium, it is only in justice to terminate 
with one. Ypres is a city, whose active past life is 
asserted by the skeleton fortifications bordering it. 
Its location is on the river Yperlle, not really a 
river, more canal, running through a very fertile 
country. The numerous invasions Ypres suffered 
reduced its useful attempts at manufacturing to the 
production alone of laces. To-day it is but a shadow 
of its olden self, yet hundreds make their pilgrimage 



14 BELGIUM. 

to its city door, to view the curiosities it holds in 
store. Just peeping up from the Hotel de Ville, is the 
face of St. Martin's Church. The Hotel again, at 
variance with its fellow houses of Justice, presents a 
new style of architecture. It covers considerable 
ground, and unlike the one at Oudenarde, holds more 
of interest within than without. Butto see it all, time 
must be had, and if the old clock tells the truth, 
twenty-five minutes of eleven is a fit time to close. 



